Bruno Waterfield is one of the longest-serving newspaper correspondents in Brussels and quite possibly its most seasoned bar-counter observer. In this episode of My Brussels, the Times’ correspondent takes us through the remnants of authentic Brussels. Expect twenty-plus years of adventures and affectionate grumbling about the city’s quirks. To dive in properly, start with a fondke — preferably steak-frites drizzled in roquefort sauce — and let it set the tone for a tour of brown bars, cosy cafés, leafy corners and neighbourhoods where stories have been brewing for decades.